WHERE TO START

Before you invest, take a hard look at your existing pantry. If you’re starting from scratch, you’re in luck. It’s way easier to outfit an empty kitchen than it is to evaluate all of your edible possessions with a neutral heart. (One friend remarked that going through her freezer was like looking at old vacation photos: “Aw, that’s the bacon we picked up on that great trip to the Berkshires.”)

Curating your pantry is a little like going through your clothes closet: if you haven’t used an ingredient in the last six months, get rid of it. You’re either not interested in it or it could use replacing.

While you’re at it, check the expiration date on everything. Remember, your pantry includes your cupboard, fridge, and freezer.

Look in your cupboards. Most dry goods last a really long time, but you’d be surprised how many items you’ve let sit around for more than two years after using them once. I once held on to a box of nonfat dried milk powder through two apartment moves. I used it to make white bread once; turns out I was not going to make it again anytime soon.

Now check the fridge. And not just the shelves. Go through the doors—where the biggest offenders, like too-hot hot sauce or weirdly textured jam can hide behind the ketchup—and get rid of any condiments you don’t use monthly. Check crisper and deli drawers and throw away (or, bless you righteous ones, compost) the wilted, the faded, the moldy. While you’re in there, go ahead and give surfaces a swipe with a damp sponge or disinfectant wipe. It’s as satisfying as Swiffering the closet floor.

Finally, look in the freezer. Anything that’s been in the deep freeze longer than three months should probably go. Some very new and well-calibrated freezers can keep things free of freezer burn for up to six months, but I’ve only encountered one of these appliances in my life. (For the record, this was an ex-boyfriend’s mom’s nothing-special freezer. One Christmas we ate lemon scones that had been frozen since the previous Christmas, reheated in the toaster oven. I chalk this up to her impeccable storage skills—individually double plastic wrapped, then sealed in a zippered plastic bag—but also to the fact that she never let the freezer get packed to the gills, limiting airflow, which is what can cause a big freeze.) Check inside bags and foil to identify anything mysterious: if it’s covered in ice crystals, it will taste more like freezer than whatever it once was. Go ahead and get rid of it. You probably know this, but I recommend that you label stuff with a Sharpie before it goes into the freezer. No need for prose, just write what it is and when you put it in there.

Once you’ve given your pantry a good, honest evaluation, you’ll start to see what ingredients you actually use. Favorite pieces—canned tomatoes, maybe, or even farro—will make themselves known just like a favorite pair of jeans.

15-MINUTE MARINARA

Active time: 15 minutes | Total time: 15 minutes | Makes 2 quarts

Makes the equivalent of two 32-ounce jars.

1⁄2 cup oil

2 yellow onions, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

21⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

Freshly ground black pepper

Two 28-ounce cans tomatoes (crushed preferred, or whole peeled)

A little bit of water to rinse out the can (about 3⁄4 cup but I don’t expect you to measure this)

Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and several grinds of black pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and water, the remaining 11⁄2 teaspoons salt, and some more black pepper.

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Blend if you like. Let cool, then divide the sauce into pint-size containers.

Refrigerate for about a week or freeze up to 6 months.

OVEN-BAKED NEATBALLS

Active time: 10 minutes | Total time: 25 minutes | Makes about 24 meatballs

1⁄2 cup whole milk

1⁄2 cup panko or crushed crackers

1⁄2 cup grated Parmesan or pecorino

1 large egg

11⁄2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 garlic clove, grated

1 teaspoon fennel seeds, chopped

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound ground beef, pork, meatloaf mix, or turkey

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Mix the milk, panko, Parmesan, egg, salt, garlic, fennel seeds, oregano, and several grinds of black pepper in a large bowl. Add the meat and, using clean hands, fold everything together until evenly combined. Roll the mixture into 11⁄2-inch balls and place on an ungreased rimmed baking sheet.

Bake until sizzling and no longer pink, about 10 minutes. Increase the heat to broil and broil until lightly browned on top, about 3 more minutes.

To freeze: let cool completely, then transfer to a resealable plastic bag. Freeze up to 6 months.

PASTA AND NEATBALLS

Active time: 10 minutes | Total time: 20 minutes | Serves 4 to 6

A quick reminder that if you come to class prepared, you get an A+ in spaghetti and meatballs. Stock that freezer, friends.

1 pound pasta, any shape

12 Oven-Baked Neatballs

4 cups 15-Minute Marinara

Parmesan or pecorino, grated, for serving

Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water according to package directions for al dente.

Meanwhile, combine the neatballs and marinara in a large skillet over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the neatballs are heated through, about 10 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the neatballs to a bowl or platter. Using tongs, transfer the pasta directly to the skillet along with 1 cup pasta water. Increase the heat to high and cook, tossing, until the sauce thickens and coats the pasta, about 3 minutes. Serve the saucy pasta topped with neatballs and grated cheese.

Whenever possible, I serve stuff family style, straight from the cooking vessel. Just be sure to put down a trivet and cover hot handles with a dish towel.