October 2010

I read THE WAVE by Susan Casey about a month ago when it first came out, and thus I am a tad late selecting it as a Bets On. I was not thinking about it for this distinction, but then I realized that I consistently am bringing this book up in conversation when I talk about what I am reading with booksellers, librarians, friends, and okay, just about everyone I come in contact with. What’s been interesting is how this book about waves and where they come from and big wave surfing has led to passionate conversations with folks I never thought would love it, as in people like me who are not going to be jumping on a sufrboard any time soon.
 

It got me to thinking why this book works. All of us love waves at the beach; there is something magical about the way they rush towards us in huge swells one day and then the next appear as ripples. The ocean is unpredictable, which is one of its charms; when I am at the beach, I know no two days ever will be alike, as a day at the beach depends on how the waves behave. Susan’s writing makes the science behind the waves --- and the power of the wind to influence their shapes and size --- read like a page-turner instead of a clinical documentary that you are lost five minutes into it. And of course, the action takes on a whole new tone when we read about the watermen, the big wave surfers who crave these waves to ride and explore. This is not casual surfing, but rather what she writes about are pilgrimages to find the best waves and the ways to conquer them. These adventures are handled deftly by Susan, who clearly understands the magic of these moments and respects them. This is a book that shows respect for the power of the water and those who seek it out. After reading it, I recommend watching two DVDs about surfing: Riding Giants and Step into Liquid. Each will mean a lot more to you after reading THE WAVE.